When I first stepped off the train in Mantova (or Mantua, as it’s known in English), I honestly didn’t expect much. It’s not the kind of place that makes the glossy cover of every Italian travel guide. But within an hour of wandering its cobbled streets and glancing at the shimmer of its lakes, I was hooked. Mantua may be small, but its soul feels enormous.
A city built by the Gonzagas
The Gonzaga family ruled Mantua for centuries, and they left behind palaces that could make Florence or Venice jealous. The Palazzo Ducale is less a palace and more a city within the city: endless halls, frescoed rooms, and hidden gardens. I remember standing in Andrea Mantegna’s famous Camera degli Sposi (Bridal Chamber) and craning my neck up at the ceiling, marveling at how a 15th-century painter could create such playful, almost three-dimensional illusions.
Not far away is the Palazzo Te, where the Gonzagas really showed off their taste for extravagance. The “Room of the Giants” literally makes you feel like the sky is crashing down on you — walls and ceiling dissolve into one massive fresco of tumbling gods. It’s overwhelming, theatrical, and unforgettable.
The embrace of the lakes
One thing that makes Mantua so unique is its setting. The city is wrapped on three sides by lakes – Lago Superiore, Lago di Mezzo, and Lago Inferiore – giving it the feel of a little island. In the evening, I strolled along the lakeside paths, watching the water turn orange and purple with the sunset. The air was calm, broken only by the sound of ducks and the chatter of couples cycling past.
If you come in summer, the lakes bloom with lotus flowers, and you can even take small boat tours through the fields of green leaves and blossoms. It’s surreal – almost like being in Asia, but with Italian bell towers in the background.
A walk through the Old Town
Mantua’s old town feels compact and cozy, like it was designed for slow wandering. In Piazza delle Erbe, I sat with an espresso, watching locals going about their routines while the Rotonda di San Lorenzo — a small, round medieval church — stood quietly nearby. Just a short walk away, the Basilica di Sant’Andrea towers over the square, hiding inside a relic that many believe contains Christ’s blood.
What I loved most was the lack of crowds. Unlike Florence or Venice, there were no lines of tour groups shuffling behind flags. It felt like Mantua was letting me in on a secret.
Food with a local soul
If Mantua has a flavor, it’s sweet and savory at the same time. The most famous dish here is tortelli di zucca – pumpkin-filled pasta, usually dressed with butter, sage, and a dusting of Parmesan. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but the mix of sweet pumpkin and salty cheese was addictive. For dessert, I tried sbrisolona, a crunchy almond tart that crumbles the moment you touch it.
Mantuan food feels like comfort cooking, hearty and generous, paired with wines from the surrounding Lombardy hills. After dinner, I wandered back into the piazza, full and happy, the air warm with late-summer energy.
Small city, big soul
Mantua isn’t a place that overwhelms you with size or noise. Instead, it draws you in gently – through its Renaissance art, its quiet streets, its lakes that glow at sunset. It’s the kind of city where you can spend the morning in world-class palaces, the afternoon by the water, and the evening with a glass of red wine in a cobbled square.
Some cities are unforgettable because they are grand. Mantua is unforgettable because it’s intimate. A small city with a big soul.
Practical tips
Getting there
- Mantua is easy to reach by train: about 1.5 hours from Milan, 45 minutes from Verona, and just over 2 hours from Bologna
- If you’re driving, the city is well connected by highways and has parking areas just outside the old town
Best time to visit
- Spring and early autumn are ideal: mild weather, fewer crowds, and beautiful light over the lakes
- Summer brings the unique lotus flower bloom on the lakes – magical, but also warmer and more humid
Where to stay
- For charm: boutique hotels or BnBs in the historic center put you steps from the piazzas
- For quiet: lakeside guesthouses just outside the walls offer peaceful views
Don’t miss
- Palazzo Ducale and Palazzo Te for Renaissance art and frescoes
- Basilica di Sant’Andrea – a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture and home to a sacred relic
- Evening walk or bike ride along the lakes
- Tortelli di zucca and sbrisolona – Mantua’s signature flavors
