I’m Ukrainian. But for more than ten years I’ve been living abroad, somewhere between “local” and “visitor.” That’s why you can probably trust my perspective on traveling to Ukraine – it’s an insider’s view, but also the eye of someone who now experiences it partly as a tourist. And yes, despite the war, people do travel there. Some go to see family, others to volunteer, and a few simply want to understand the country beyond the headlines.
How to get to Ukraine during the war
Since all airports in Ukraine are currently closed, the only way in is through neighboring countries. Obviously, Belarus and russia are not options, so you’ll want to look at Poland, Romania, Hungary, Moldova, or Slovakia. Out of these, Poland and Romania are the best and most convenient gateways.
Here are the main airports to consider:
- Poland: Krakow, Warsaw
- Hungary: Budapest
- Romania: Iasi, Suceava, Bucharest
- Moldova: Chisinau
- Slovakia: Kosice
From these airports, you’ll usually continue by bus (local carriers or FlixBus), or sometimes by night trains and minibuses (the latter are faster but often less comfortable).
- From Warsaw:
- Train to Chełm, then onward connections by train into Ukraine, including to Kyiv and Kharkiv.
- Train to Rava-Ruska border checkpoint, where you can connect further to Lviv.
- From Kraków:
- Train to Przemysl, which has regular Ukrainian Railways trains into Lviv.
These train routes are incredibly popular right now, so it’s wise to book tickets up to 21 days in advance.
- From Romanian airports (Iasi, Suceava, Bucharest):
There are plenty of buses and minibuses heading toward Chernivtsi. If you’re flying into Iasi or Suceava, I can recommend Air Trans and Tarsin, two companies that run transfers straight from the airports. From Bucharest, the journey is much longer, but you’ll find several night buses to Chernivtsi, plus trains north to Iași and Suceava if you prefer to split the trip. - From Kosice (Slovakia) and Budapest (Hungary):
Both cities have train and bus links to Uzhhorod and Mukachevo, two Ukrainian towns in the Zakarpattia region. This route is especially convenient if you’re already in Central Europe. - From Chisinau (Moldova):
Technically, you can reach Iasi in Romania from here, or even head directly to Odesa. But I strongly advise against flying into Chisinau for Ukraine travel, and even more against trying to reach Odesa at the moment. Odesa is close to the war zone and has been bombed regularly by russia – sometimes daily. On top of that, Chișinău airport itself is very small and often overcrowded. I’ve seen people literally sitting on the floor in departure halls because there aren’t enough seats for the volume of passengers. Not the best way to start your journey.
Later in this article, I’ll dedicate a section to the question of safety, outlining which regions are unsafe, partially safe, and relatively stable to visit.
Rules you need to know before visiting Ukraine
Traveling to Ukraine right now means adjusting to rules that didn’t exist before the war. These aren’t just “tips” – they’re legal and practical realities that shape how you move around the country.
- Curfew: Every region has a curfew, except for Uzhhorod and the wider Zakarpattia region. During curfew hours, you must stay indoors – usually in your hotel or accommodation. Public transport and taxis generally don’t operate, though trains remain an exception and run on schedule. In Lviv, taxi apps still work at night. In Kyiv and most other cities, the only option is arranging a private driver who will claim to police that he’s a relative or friend helping you home. It’s legal gray territory, expensive, and not recommended unless absolutely necessary. If you arrive on a late-night train, be prepared to spend the night in the station – unless you’re in Lviv, where taxis might still operate.
- Different curfew times:
In most or cities like Kyiv, Lviv, and Odesa and their regions, curfew is 00:00 – 05:00. But some regions start earlier, even as early as 8pm. Always check the local rules when you arrive. - Food and restaurants: Delivery apps and restaurants shut down before curfew. Order your meal at least an hour ahead of time – couriers won’t take last-minute orders right before midnight.
- ID requirements: You are required to carry your passport with you at all times. Police and military checkpoints are common, especially in central and eastern Ukraine, and you’ll be asked for ID.
- Air raid alerts: Download an air raid alert app (many Ukrainians use “Air Alert” or follow the live alert map). Sirens are part of daily life, and you should know when and where to move to shelter.
Safe and unsafe regions of Ukraine
When planning a trip to Ukraine during the war, the most important thing is knowing where you shouldn’t go. Some regions are under constant attack, and traveling there right now is simply unsafe. Others, while not free from risk, are relatively calm and manageable for visitors.
Absolutely unsafe regions
The following regions are not safe for travel:
Chernihiv, Sumy, Kharkiv, Donetsk, Luhansk, Dnipropetrovsk, Zaporizhzhia, Kherson, Odesa, and Mykolaiv.
I strongly discourage anyone from visiting these areas. Bombing and missile strikes happen there almost daily, and it’s not worth the risk.
That said, if you ignore all advice and still decide to go, at the very least:
- Choose a hotel with a bomb shelter. In Ukrainian it’s called укриття. If you’re searching on Booking.com, check the hotel photos for this word, and don’t be shy about messaging the property to confirm before booking.
- Know where the nearest shelter is at all times. In some cities, metro stations (Kyiv, Kharkiv, Dnipro, Kryvyi Rih) are open 24/7 as shelters. Locals sometimes spend the entire night underground when attacks intensify.
Honestly, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. If you’re going to Ukraine, stick to safer regions.
Relatively safe regions
Kyiv isn’t officially marked as “dangerous”, but it lives in contradiction. The capital is under regular rocket and drone attacks, so you always need to stay alert, check the air raid apps, and know where the nearest shelter is. The metro works perfectly for this, and it’s always open and free to the public during alarms. Still, the city itself is very much alive. Days can feel normal – cafes buzzing, theaters open, opera houses staging performances, restaurants packed. Some Ukrainians joke that in the day, Kyiv feels like Monaco. At night, under bombardment, it can feel more like Afghanistan. Both realities exist side by side.
For pure tourism, culture, and safety, my best recommendations are Ivano-Frankivsk, Lviv, Chernivtsi, and Zakarpattia. Along with Volyn, Rivne, Zhytomyr, Poltava, Cherkasy, Kirovohrad, Vinnytsia, Khmelnytskyi, and Ternopil, these regions see fewer air raids, fewer checkpoints, and generally provide a calmer experience. You’ll also notice you’re not alone as a visitor – Ukraine still attracts travelers. In fact, around 1 million people visited in just the first half of 2024.
Why go to Ukraine during the war?
You might wonder why anyone would travel to Ukraine right now. For me, the answer is simple: Ukraine offers experiences you won’t find anywhere else, and even in wartime, much of the country is vibrant, safe, and welcoming.
The main reasons are clear:
- Culture – from opera in Kyiv to folk traditions in the Carpathians, Ukraine’s cultural life hasn’t stopped
- Nature – mountains, forests, and wide rivers create landscapes that surprise even seasoned travelers
- Food – Ukrainian cuisine is hearty, creative, and deeply tied to local identity. Eating borshch or varenyky in Lviv tastes different when you know the history behind it
- Unique experience – visiting Ukraine now isn’t like visiting anywhere else in Europe. You’ll see resilience up close, and you’ll bring home stories most people can’t imagine.
I’ll dedicate separate articles to beautiful places worth visiting, but here I just want to stress: if you come, you won’t only be a tourist. You’ll be part of something bigger – showing support, learning, and connecting with a country fighting for its future.